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Newsgroups: rec.pets.birds,rec.answers,news.answers Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!ira.uka.de!math.fu-berlin.de!nigel.msen.com!sdd.hp.com!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!tombaker From: tombaker@world.std.com Subject: rec.pets.birds FAQ: Monthly Posting (2/2) Message-ID: <C5JMB3.E21@world.std.com> Followup-To: rec.pets.birds Summary: This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds. Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you! Sender: tombaker@world.std.com (Tom A Baker) Reply-To: tombaker@world.std.com Organization: Me, at The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1993 20:59:26 GMT Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Expires: Thu, 17 Jun 1993 00:00:00 GMT Lines: 929 Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.pets.birds:4167 rec.answers:630 news.answers:7613 Archive-name: pets-birds-faq/part2 Last-modified: 1993/02/28 Version: 1 =============================================================================== There was an old parrot of Steen, Its musical sense was not keen; People found it quite odd, That Polly sang "God- Save the Weasel" and "Pop Goes the Queen." --Unknown =============================================================================== * * * W E L C O M E T O T H E F A Q * * * Freqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds. P A R T II =========== This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds. Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you! This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993, by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by permission only. Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted. Part 2 covers Diet and feeding; Taming and training; Travel with birds; Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid. Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like; Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys. =============================================================================== F E E D I N G - D I E T - T R E A T S =============================================================================== Q. What can I feed my bird? A. For hookbill, a pelleted diet is a good choice, with seeds as a treat. Finches and canaries are naturally seedeaters, but should have greenfood as well. Finches also do well to have some live food occasionally. Some canaries (red-factors) need color food which is high in beta-carotene or uses an artifical coloring to maintain their red. Lories and other brushtongued parrots eat a special nectar. Toucans and Toucanettes need a diet low in iron and will eat livefood. You can feed your bird just about anything that is good for you, but birds seem to have a tendency towards vitamin A deficiency, so keep this in mind. Birds can eat fruits, veggies, low-fat yogurt, an occasional bit of cheese, lean meat--chicken and turkey are good, cereals like corn flakes or crisped rice, whitefish. An occasional nut is fine, but be careful as nuts are very fatty and peanuts which are moldy can give a bird aspergilliosis. Basically it seems anything that is good for you is good for your bird. There is raging debate over what exactly is a good diet, but it seems that a vet-recommended pellet diet, with a little seed, and a choice of fruits and veggies daily is a good ch oice. Each pellet in a pelleted diet has been made so that it is nutrionally complete. Also, there is a "pulse" diet, which is a mixture of seeds, nuts and various legumes (beans, etc) which is good as well. You can also feed your birds prepackaged diet supplements that are cooked, like Crazy Corn (tm). Most birds love stuff like that. Q. Okay, then, what CAN'T my bird eat? A. Chocolate, Alcohol, Avocado, Rhubarb and Caffiene are toxic to your birds. Never feed them to your bird. Some seeds and pits are also toxic, but seeds from melons are okay,. Foods that are high in fat, salt and sugar are no-no's too. Q. What functions are vitamins and minerals needed for? What are symptoms of deficiency? What foods provide these necessary dietary components? A. Birds are just like people, vitamins and minerals, along with trace elements are required for growth and maintenance of homeostasis (regulation of body). A balanced diet will provide the nutrition needed. For charts and information in detail about avian vitamin needs, check books or get a copy of December 1992 Bird Talk Magazine. It features an article by Tom Roudybush, who developed Roudybush feeds. Q. Does my bird require a special diet/supplements? A. Certain species need special diets. For example, Lories live on nectar. African Greys are susceptible to Calcium deficiency, which leads to seizures. Birds which are molting need more protein. Breeding and brooding birds need a boosted diet too. Sick birds may require a diet different from the usual. Consult your vet. Q. Do I have to feed my bird live food? A. Live food--crickets, grubs, worms, pinky mice (hairless babies) are good sources of protein for breeding and brooding birds and pets. You can get them from pet stores or mail-order. Your bird may refuse to eat them. Q. Do I need to use a vitamin supplement? A. A balanced diet is always better than a poor one supplemented with vitamins, but there may be a case when your bird will need them. Vitamin supplements that you put in the water may be refused because of the taste. The amount of nutrients in the water also encourages bacterial growth. Powdered supplements work on moist food, but measure carefully, so you don't overdose your bird. Cuttlebones and mineral blocks should be provided in the bird's cage. The bird will use them as needed. Q. Does my bird need grit? A. Welcome to the great grit gridlock. Everybody has a different opinion on this issue. The current opinion is that birds that eat mostly soft food and fruits don't need grit; a bird which eats mostly dry seeds will need grit. However, some people don't even give grit to birds which supposedly "need" grit. They claim that it makes the bird lose weight. There is also the danger of crop impaction when a bird is given grit. Birds kept in aviaries with dirt floors will pick granules off the ground, so it is not necessary to provide grit to them. If you do feel your bird may need grit, try to get a soluble kind, as it will eventually dissolve out of the bird's crop and in doing so will provide calcium and other such minerals. Oyster shell grit is ideal. A bird will only need a few grains of grit. Q. What can I give my bird as a treat? A. An occasional treat or reward is a nice thing for a bird. It might be a bit of favorite fruit/veggie. Cheese, a commerically prepared birdie treat, a spray of millet, a bit of people food (Sammy conure gets a teeny, teeny bit of pizza when we order one) a nut is a nice treat too, and it's fun to play with. Remember, if the treat seems miniscule to you, recall that you are much bigger than your bird, so adjust the serving accordingly. ***HELP! My bird won't eat anything but seeds! What do I do?!*** Be patient. Some birds will just refuse to eat pellets outright. There's nothing to be done in a case like that. There are various opinions on how to convert a seed-eater to pellets. Cockatiels are notably the most stubborn. The process can take anywhere from two weeks to two years. You begin by mixing in some pellets with the seed and gradually, decreasing the amount of seed and increasing the pellets. Veggies and fruits have to be presented daily. Some birds will not eat sliced carrots, but will eat them shredded or whole. Keep this in mind when serving the bird. It may like its apple quartered instead of sliced. Experiment. Birds like things that are fun to eat. Peas in a pod, whole beans, melon is good, and birds love the seeds. Broccoli seems to be widely and nearly immediately accepted. Try skewering a fruit or veggie, and then not only is it food, but a toy! Keep trying. Some people just take away the seed all at once, and let the birds get hungry enough until they break down and eat the pellets. But you have to be careful, some birds would rather starve than try something new, or it might be that they are unable to recognize the pellets as "food" because it doesn't fit their picture of "food" (seeds). In such a case, watch for all-black droppings, it means the bird is starving to death. You may have to try different brands of pellets as well. Patience is the key to this, and well worth it. It helps the birds to lead healthier--and fuller, more active lives. SOURCES FOR PELLETED DIETS: *Note: According to several netters, (actually their vets) the general opinion seems to be that Pretty Bird diets are terrible, and Purina is even worse. But this is all opinion. Lafeber Company Lake's Ultimate Avian Diet BT7 92 RR#2 639 Stryker Avenue Odell, IL, 60460 St. Paul, MN, 55107 1-800-842-6445 1-800-634-2473 Roudybush Feeds Scenic Bird Foods P.O. Box 908 Marion Zoological Inc. Templeton, CA, 93564 113 N. First P.O. Box 212 1-800-326-1726 Marion, KS, 66861 (Avialable only through Veterinarians, and certain dealers) SOURCES FOR COOKED SUPPLEMENTS Crazy Corn Flights of Fancy 13330 Bessemer Street 1594 Hilltop Drive Van Nuys, CA, 91491 El Cajon, CA, 92020-8227 1-800-BIRD-YUM (1-800-247-3986) 1-800-776-MEAL (1-800-776-6325) SOURCES FOR LIVE FOOD Grubco Rainbow Mealworms P.O. Box 15001 126 E. Spruce Street Hamilton, OH, 45015 P.O. Box 4907 1-800-222-3563 Compton, CA, 90224 1-213-635-1494 for inquiries, information. 1-800-777-9677 (orders) =============================================================================== T R A I N G - T A M I N G - T R I C K S - P L A Y I N G =============================================================================== ==TAMING/TRAINING== Q. How soon do I begin? A. Right away! Q. What supplies do I need? A. A T-stand, a perch, a towel may be necessary, an area free from distraction, a positive attitude, and lots and lots of patience. Q. Does clipping my bird's wings help in training? A. Yes, it does. Not only that, it's a good saftey measure. If you take the time, it is possible to do a clip that really isn't visible and looks pretty good. Wing clipping is painless, and the bird isn't going to hate you for it. (see HEALTH section) Q. Okay, I have what I need, now what? A. Establish a routine, and stick to it! Birds are creatures of routine, and one that is consistent will help the bird feel more secure. Establish taming/training time, say, for an hour every day at two. Then just do it! Every day. Q. But I have a hand-fed baby bird, not an older, untame bird. Do I really need to "tame" it? A. You will need to train the bird to respond to an up command, and learn to stay on its perch when you put it there. Hand-fed babies are naturally friendly and tame, but they need discipline and rules too! Q. What's the UP command? A. The UP command is a rule for your bird. When you say UP, the bird knows it is to step on the perch or hand/arm you are offering it. The DOWN command is used when setting the bird down. --TO TEACH THE UP/DOWN COMMAND-- Take your bird to the training area. Put the bird on its t-stand. Now, take your finger,hand, or arm (or use a dowel/perch) and press it against the bird's legs. The bird will then step up onto the perch. As the bird steps up, say "<bird's name> Up!" Praise the bird. Place the bird back on the t-stand, say "<name> Down!". Repeat this. It seems that most birds can learn this is fifteen minutes, but results and birds vary. Always be patient, and no matter what happens with training, never, ever hit your bird. Being consistent is the best thing you can do. Q. My bird is stick trained, but *hates* to perch on my finger or hand. What do I do about this? A. You have two choices, one using the perch, and the other using a training towel. Holding the stick on which the bird is perched, slowly tip one end of the perch up, so that it's higher than the other. A bird will instinctively go to the highest perch, and this would be your hand. Drop the perch away once the bird is on your hand. The bird might jump off when it feels the skin of your hand. Then there is the training towel. Get a neutral colored towel (white, beige, etc). Put the towel on the floor, and the bird on the towel. Gradually bring the corners of the towel up until the bird is enclosed. This may take a while, a week or two, or maybe even just ten minutes. If it gets to the point where your bird is calm about this, reach under the towel, and place the bird's feet on your finger/hand/arm. Once the bird is perching, drop the towel's sides down. The bird may stay on or hop off. Keep working until you get results. Once again, be consistent and patient. Q. I'd like to teach my bird to talk. How do I do that? A. Some breeds talk better than others, and even that can vary by individuals. Greys are supposed to be the best talkers. Start with something simple like "Hello" and just repeat it to the bird. Once again, consistency and patience is the key. Once the bird picks up a few simple words, it may very well start learning on its own. There are also CD's and tapes with phrases on them. It's a good idea to teach your bird its phone number and address in case it escapes or gets stolen. Q. Can I teach my bird to be quiet? A. All birds need some time to mouth off, but constant screaming is a problem. But you simply cannot punish a bird for doing what comes naturally. First, think about when the bird screams. Is it in the morning and at night? This is normal and natural. Is the bird near a loud TV or stereo or a window that has bustle and hustle going on outside? Try moving the cage. Never yell at the bird, this is a reward of sorts for it. If the bird is screaming in its cage, try covering it for about five minutes. It should quiet down. Remove the bird when it's quiet. Try to provide more toys for the bird if left alone frequently. Reinforce *positive* behavior. This can be hard to do...we're more inclined to notice bad behavior than good. Each bird is unique and may require a different approach to remedy its screaming. You can consult with a animal behaviorist to help in really bad cases. Q. Can I teach my bird tricks? A. Yes. Once again, ability and inclination varies by individuals. Cockatoos seem to be the best at physical tricks. Tricks are taught by gradual conditioning towards the desired behavior. There are books and videos on how to teach a bird to perform tricks. One such book is published by Parrot Mountain. Parrot Mountain Handbook (potty training, tricks, etc) $7.95 and $3.00 shipping and handling (U.S.) $4.00 shipping and handling to Canada P.O. Box 2037 Ocean, NJ, 00712 1-800-362-8183 Q. I'd like to potty train my bird. How do I do that? A. Keep in mind that a bird flies, and in order to do that, it must stay as light as possible. So the bird just unloads its ballast whenever it feels the urge. I can speak from experience that our conure goes every 10-15 minutes, although now he's started to hold it till we get him on his potty. What I did was get a t-stand and designate it as his potty. It's small with a wide base for catching the Birdie Bombs(tm) :) and it's portable. You can designate a pile of papers or the cage, or whatever is acceptable to you. I simply would put Sammy on his potty and say "Poop!" until he did. Then he was praised, and taken off the perch. Every 10 minutes or so I would repeat this. Sammy had perfected his bombing within three days. We rarely have accidents. I can hold him over a paper or in his cage and say "Poop!" and he will. You can choose whatever key word you like best, as long as it's not too common, which may confuse the bird if it hears its cue in normal conversations. Some birds potty train themselves. Some, unfortunately, do this using their water bowls and thus make poop soup. Apparently Quaker Parakeets are known for this. For a chronic soup maker, you may want to get a tube waterer, like the kind used for hamsters. ***He--OUCH!--Help! My bird bites! How do I stop it!?" Birds will bite for three reasons; they will bite out of fear, they will bite because they are excited or even just because they're feelin' good and are being high-spirited, and they will bite out of malice-- biting for the sake of biting. Birds that bite for the sake of chomping might be better off as a breeder. Any bird will bite, and justly so--if it's frightened. Birds go through a nippy stage when they hit puberty. They're trying to establish their position in the social order. This is natural. You should give an "Up!" command in a firm voice when this happens. It reminds the parrot just who is in charge of the flock. Keep in mind that a tongue to a baby bird is like fingers to a two year old human. The tongue is tactile and the bird uses it to explore its world. Never jerk your hand away from a bird that's exploring, it may get frightened and bite you. An "Ouch!" is okay, if the the bird "beaks" you a little too hard. The "Ouch!" will help the bird to understand your limits (and its limits!) But never yell, hit, or be dramatic, even though your fingers--and feelings may be hurt. Such behavior can be a drama award and it's exciting for the bird to get a rise from you. Don't put the bird in its cage either, should it bite. This only reinforces territoriality about the bird's cage, and the parrot will quickly equate bite = back to cage. The bird will then bite whenever and however often it feels like going back to its cage. You would be very surprised how gentle birds are once they understand your limits. As an example, I had an an opportunity to handle a Blue and Gold Macaw. These birds can bite hard enough to break a broom handle. The owner of the shop had obviously worked with this darling bird, as it took my index finger in its beak and explored it very gently, never once bearing down hard enough to be even slightly uncomfortable, let alone hurt me. ==PLAYING== Play is an important part of your bird's daily activities and it's fun to do things with your bird. This can range from watching TV together to sailing, to games, to listening to music together. A bird is most happy when it can be part of the family and part of the action. Also, a certain amount of *independent* playtime--where the bird is responsible for amusing itself--is necessary, whether you are at home or not. Make certain your bird has few safe, fun and interesting toys to amuse itself with. This independent time keeps the bird mentally healthy and gives you a break too. =============================================================================== T R A V E L L I N G - W I T H - B I R D S =============================================================================== Q. Can I travel with my bird? A. If your bird is not stressed by new places and situations, yes. Make sure to call ahead to confirm that hotels will take birds. Also talk to your vet if you'll be crossing state lines, you may need a certificate of health and perhaps other papers. Q. What's the best way to transport my bird? A. In a sturdy container. It's a terrible idea to let the bird ride on your shoulder or be loose in the car. Should the bird spook, it could endanger everybody. Q. What about carsickness? Do birds get it? A. Yes, with the same symptoms as people. They get sick and vomit, act listless and may lose their appetite. Not feeding the bird and covering the cage will help ease this. The sickness may even be due to nerves. Once again, your vet can help you. Q. Should I acclimate my bird to travelling in the car? A. If the bird seems apprehensive about it, yes. Do this gradually, perhaps beginning with the carrier. Let the bird have enough time to get used to it. Leave it open in the play area and let the bird poke around in it. Take the bird out to the car. Sit in it for a while. Don't run the car, just sit in there, and praise the bird. Work up to where the bird feels comfortable. Then try running the car. Work up to comfort again. Then try short drives. Then longer. And then pretty soon the bird will be able to drive the car by itself. Q. What should I bring when travelling? A. A first aid kit (just in case) food, treats, bottled water or water from home, strange water may cause health problems. A few favorite toys, and of course, your bird! Q. What if my bird can't deal with travelling? A. You can have a family member or a friend come in and feed and socialize with your bird or you can hire a pet-sitter. You can also board your bird with someone, but doing so at a pet-shop may prove too stressful for the bird, and it could catch something from other birds at the shop. Boarders and pet-sitters are listed in the yellow-pages. Get references and make sure that the person or company is bonded. Try to get the pet-sitter to come over and meet your bird and show the sitter how to prepare the bird's meals. Give the sitter a chance to play with the bird, if possible. Leave a sheet with written instructions and the number of your vet and where you can be contacted if any problems occur. =============================================================================== V E T S - H E A L T H - H A Z A R D S - F I R S T A I D =============================================================================== ==FINDING AN AVIAN VET== Q. Where can I find an avian vet? A. Try looking in the yellow pages, asking a breeder or another friend for a recommendation. Q. What do I look for when I go to check out the vet? A. A number of things: Is the office clean and does it have proper equipment? Look for or ask to see bird-related equipment like an incubator, special bird syringes--to administer small doses, opthalmic equipment--for surgery and for sexing, perhaps a laser if the office is advanced enough. Ask for a tour when it's convenient for the doctor and the staff! Most vets will gladly do this--they're usually very proud of what they can offer to their avian patients. Do you like the doctor's manner and personality? Are you encouraged to and do you feel comfortable asking questions? Does the doctor take the time to explain things? Will the doctor refer you to a specialist if this is what the bird needs? Can--and will the doctor admit when s/he doesn't know? Are the fees and rates explained to you? Do the costs seem reasonable? Are various tests available and used? Are the purposes of these tests made clear to you? Are these tests needed or are they extraneous? Does your vet own any birds? Q. The vet I have for my dog doesn't seem to know a lot about birds. Will he be offended if I go to another vet? A. If the vet's worth their salt, no. They should always have the animals' best interest at hearts. If you feel very badly, continue to bring the dog to your regular vet, and the bird to a vet with an interest with birds. ==HEALTH== Q. How do I tell if my bird is sick? A. The best indicator would be the bird's droppings. Bright green or watery droppings are not a good sign. Also a sick bird will sit huddled and puffed up, with its eyes closed. The bird's song may change or stop and it may stop talking. Wheezing or sneezing or a nasal discharge is bad news. The bird might "pump" its tail. It may not eat or it may consume vast amounts of water. Observe your bird every day, that way when something occurs out of the ordinary, you'll notice. Also, birds often don't manifest signs of sickness until they're really in trouble. Watch for warning signs, and act on them--get that bird to a vet. Better safe than sorry. Q. Do I really need to clip my bird's wings? A. A lot of people think it's mean to clip a bird's wings. "What good is a bird that can't fly?" Well, it's a bird that you won't lose. Wing clipping is painless, like getting a haircut. The bird won't end up injured due to flying in the house. Clipping also keeps the bird from getting too smart-alecky and it is an aid in the taming process. Different birds require different patterns of clipping. A cockatiel is such a powerful flyer that usually all the primaries have to be trimmed. Ask your vet or breeder to show you how to do it, and then you can do it yourself from there. If you do it, it's actually less stressing for the bird, and no, the bird won't hate you. Make sure to check for bloodfeathers before clipping wings. Q. My bird's nails are overgrown. Can they be trimmed? A. Yes. Use either a pair of nail clippers or special bird claw scissors. Look for the "quick", the vein that is in the claw. You can see in it light colored claws as a pinkish stripe. In dark claws, you can turn the bird over to see the underside of the claw and the quick. You may want to have someone show you how to clip them first. Provide different perches and surfaces to keep claws in trim naturally. If you do hit the quick, dip the claw into some styptic powder to staunch the bleeding. Q. My bird's beak is overgrown. What do I do? A. An overgrown beak usually means that the bird doesn't have enough to gnaw on, which is how the bird keeps the beak trimmed in the wild. A vet or experienced breeder must trim the beak, as it is full of blood vessels, and a mishap could be very serious. Q. Does my bird need a bath? A. Yes! Most birds love baths, and will bathe in a dish or in the shower with you or like to be spritzed with a plant mister set to fine. It's excellent for the bird's plumage and with "dusty" birds, like cockatoos, helps keep down the dust. Some birds may have to be gradually introduced to misting, but it's a good move. You can let the bird dry by itself (as long as the ambient temperature in your house is at *least* 60 degrees Farenheit (16 Celsius) or use a hairdryer set on medium heat. Never put a wet bird to bed for the night. Q. Do I need to install full-spectrum lighting? A. It's a good idea, especially since birds really don't get enough sunlight in an apartment or some homes. You can get the bulbs at pet stores or order them directly. These bulbs are called "R" bulbs meaning that they cannot be used with a covered fixture. This includes track lighting and recessed lighting--anything with a "shade" even if the "shade" is made of metal. Check with the manufacturer, or get in touch with the local electrician. The lighting should be placed 4 to 8 feet away from the cage, in an ordinary light socket (no shade!) The light should only be hitting a portion of the cage. The bulbs should be used a *minimum* of 10 (ten) hours a week. Q. What about an air-filtration system? A. Maybe. If you find you're sensitive to the dust from your birds. They help reduce the dust load greatly. If you have a lot of birds, this is a good idea. Also, if you smoke, it would be a good idea to have a filtration system for the sake of your birds. Q. What about stress in my bird? A. The best cure for stress is prevention! Make sure the bird is healthy, has a good diet and isn't bored. But if this all checks out, think about the bird's surroundings: Did it recently get a new cage or was the cage moved? Did you rearrange the furniture? Change the diet? Remember, birds are usually suspicious of any new thing. Stress is serious, it's a physical reaction to mental and physical strain. A bird can become stressed when you go away for a long period of time, like a vacation. Infections can be a cause of stress--the bird is fighting to maintain homeostasis. Even strong perfume or even smoke can be a stressor. Natural processes, such as breeding or molting can cause stress. Of course, what may stress one bird may be of no consequence to another. *Help! My bird's NAKED! Why does it pluck?" This behavior is most common in African Greys. Plucking is usually brought on by stress, but sometimes skin problems can cause it. Parakeets sometimes will pluck their older babies, in order to get them out of the nest, so that they can clutch again. Cockatiels might do it as well. A bird may denude itself because it wants to breed, but cannot, as its a pet. Sometimes, plucking is acceptable, as when a hen may pluck her brooding area to transfer her body heat better. Boredom can cause plucking. A diet that is poor can cause this behavior, too. Once started, it usually is a very hard habit to break, and even if "cured" the bird may regress back to plucking if it gets upset. Even a minor change may trigger plucking. Q. How do I stop the bird from plucking? A. First, take it to the vet to rule out any medical causes. Consider any changes in the bird's environment. Even little things. A plucker may be dissuaded from its habit by giving the bird a toy with rope or fabric or anything the bird can tear up. Polly Dolly (tm) toys are great for pluckers. There are bitter apple sprays available, but they usually don't work. Collars can be used, but don't ever try to do this without a vet's help, or the bird could get hurt. Q. Do I need to vaccinate my birds? A. There are pros and cons to vaccinations. The biggest drawback is that every bird will react differently to the same vaccination. Some birds become paralyzed, others blind, some die, some aren't even bothered. I would think that one or two domestic birds kept as pets wouldn't need it. Birds in a large, mixed, business aviary, maybe. I don't feel qualified to give advice on this one. Ask your vet. They'll be able to explain it to you, correctly and in depth. Q. What's a hospital cage? A. It's a small, enclosed cage that has a heater in it, and usually a humidifier. A hospital cage can be warmed up, which makes it easier for the sick bird to maintain its normally high body temperature. The humidifer helps ease respiratory problems. You can make such a cage by using a small aquarium, and placing a heating pad under it. Put a thermometer in the bottom corner where the bird will be. Put some bedding in there, along with food and water, and cover with towels. Place in a dim room. The temperature should be about 85 to 90 degrees Farenheit (27 to 32 degrees Celsius). If you're really in a pinch, place the cage, wrapped in towels, near a lightbulb. ==HAZARDS== Q. What are some common hazards? A. Animals (Cat and dog saliva is very hazardous to birds) Aquariums (Uncovered = drowning) Carpet (getting snagged) Ceiling fans Children (Unless they know how to handle the bird) Chimneys/fireplaces Curtains/Drapes (can get toenails caught) Electrical wires, fixtures. Feet Fannies Mirrors Phone cords Pots on the stove PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene)--given off by nonstick pans overheated to 536 or higher degrees Farenheit (280 or higher Celsius)-- is very toxic to birds, death occurs within a few minutes. Stovetops Windows Q. What are some of the common household poisons? A. Aerosols Insecticides Shoe Polish Alcohol Kerosene Suntan lotions Antifreeze Medicine Waxes Aspirin Mothballs Bleach Paint (Lead-based) Caffeine Perfume Cigarette smoke Pine Oil Deodorants Paint remover Dishwasher detergent Paint thinner Drain cleaner Rat/Mouse poison Gasoline Shellac Q. I have plants in my home. What ones are safe and what are dangerous? A. Tom Przybylski <przybyls@avo.hp.com> posted the following list of dangerous plants (taken from the October '87 Bird Talk Magazine) to the group: The article gives latin names as well that I did not copy in. The symptoms codes are: GI = gastrointestinal, CV = cardiovascular, BL = blood abnormalities, CNS = nervous system, IR = irritant, UR = urinary tract, CY = signs associated with cyanide poisoning, RE = reproductive. The text of the article gives more information and detail on the symptoms. All or part of the listed plant may be deemed hazardous. COMMON NAME SYMPTOMS ------------------------------------------------ Autumn crocus or Meadow saffron GI Avocado GI Azelea GI Baneberry GI Beans: Castor GI Horse, Fava, Broad Java BL Glory, Scarlet Runner CY Mescal CNS Rosary peas, Ind. Licorice GI Bird of Paradise GI Bleeding Heart or Dutchman's Breeches CNS Bloodroot GI Boxwood GI Bracken Fern BL Buckthorn GI Bulb Flowers: Amaryllis GI Daffodil, Narcissus GI Hyacinth GI Iris GI Caladium IR Calla Lily IR Cardinal Flower CNS Chalice or Trumpet Vine GI Cherry Tree CNS Chinaberry Tree CNS Christmas Candle or Rose GI Clematis or Virginia Bower CNS Coral Plant GI Cowslip, Marsh Marigold CNS Daphne GI Death Camas CNS Dieffenbachia, or Dumb Cane IR Elderberry CNS Elephants Ear or Taro IR Eucalyptus Tree - not dried, dyed, treated CY* Euonymus or Spindle Tree GI False Hellebore CV Firethorn, Pyracantha IR* Four O'Clock GI Foxglove CV Golden Chain CNS Grass: Johnson, Sorghum, Sudan, Broomcorn CY Ground Cherry GI Hemlock: Poison CNS Water CNS Henbane CNS Holly GI Honeysuckle GI* Horsechestnut or Buckeye GI Horsetail CNS Hydrangea CNS Ivy, English, varieties GI* Jack-in-the-Pulpit or Ind. Turnip IR Jasmine GI, CNS Jimson Weed or Thornapple CNS Kentucky Coffee Tree CNS Lantana CNS Larkspur CV Lily-of-the-Valley CV Locusts: Black GI Honey RE Lord and Ladies or cuckoopint GI Lupines or Bluebonnet CNS Marijuana or Hemp CNS Mayapple, Mandrake GI Mistletoe GI Mock Orange GI, CNS Monkshood, Aconite CV Moonseed CNS Morning Glory CNS Mushrooms - Amanita, others GI, CNS Nettles CNS, CV Nightshades: Deadly, Black, Garden, Woody, Bittersweet, Eggplant, Jerusalem Cherry, Potato shoots GI, CNS Oaks GI Oleander CV Periwinkle CNS Philodendrons: var. Split Leaf, Swiss Cheese IR* Pigweed BL Poinsetta IR* Poison Ivy IR Poison Oak: Western, Eastern IR Pokeweed or Inkberry GI Privet GI Rain Tree GI Ranunculus, Buttercup CNS Red Maple GI Rhubarb leaves UR Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Laurels GI Sandbox Tree GI Skunk Cabbage IR Sorrel, Dock CNS Snowdrop GI Spurges: GI, IR Pencil Tree Snow on the Mountain Candelabra Tree Crown of Thorns Sweet Pea and related peas CNS Tansy Ragwort CNS Tobacco, Tree Tobacco CNS Vetch CY Virginia Creeper GI Wisteria GI Yews CV, GI Yellow Jasmine CNS * These plants have been used in aviaries without reported problems and may be considered of questionable hazard to birds. ----- Q. I'm worried about my bird getting stolen. What can I do? A. Your best bet is not to tell people the worth of your birds. If you have to transport them, do so in a covered carrier and tell them you have a canary. If you have a big bird, you might want to lock it in in the cage and keep the keys with you. I doubt a crook will try to make off with a 215 pound wrought-iron cage just because the bird's locked inside of it. Teach your bird your name, address and phone number. If you have a lot of birds, invest in an alarm system. Don't put the bird in a window where people can look in and see it. If you have a very rare, expensive or just much-loved bird, consider having a transponder planted in its chest. It's painless and effective. Q. How can I make sure that I can postively identify my bird should it be stolen? (Heaven forbid!) A. Teach your bird your full name, address and phone number if at all possible. Keep your receipt, which should have the bird's band number on it. The thief will, in all likelihood cut off the band, though. Make an audiotape of the bird speaking, especially if it says something that's unique. Make a videotape of the bird, if it does tricks. Take photographs of feet and beak, they're just like fingerprints, each unique. With Macaws, the feather lines on the facial patch are good identification. All these lines vary slightly from bird to bird. Photograph any unusual physical features, like scars or marks or missing toes and the like. You can get the bird tattooed with an I.D. number, but bird skin is thin, and doesn't hold the tattoo well. It fades quickly and has to be retouched every so often. It also is very stressing for the bird. Transponders are effective, painless and undetectable. Q. Is there such thing as bird insurance? A. Yes, there is. You may be able to get additional coverage from your company, but usually not. The loss of a bird will not be covered by your homeowner/rental policy, either. However, there is a company called Avi-Care that has a standard policy which provides coverage against theft and death. Premiums begin at 9.5% of the bird's market value. There is also an optional veterinary coverage at additional cost. For futher information call or write to: Complete Equity Markets, Inc. Avicare Divison 1098 South Milwaukee Avenue Wheeling, IL, 60090-6398 1-800-323-6234 =============================================================================== F I R S T A I D =============================================================================== ==AVIAN AID== *Note: all the A's in this section are what to do right then and there. Should the situation be serious, get to the vet, who will perform "Second aid" First aid is just to hold the bird over 'till the vet visit. It's not a cure. Q. Can I buy complete bird first aid kits? A. Yes, you can! Exotic Bird Care Thief Of Hearts Bird Aid First Aid Kit 7514 Charmant Drive #923 421 N. Glenn San Diego, CA, 92122 Wichita, KS, 67203 1-619-793-2473 1-316-267-1656 $14.95 plus $2.00 s/h $39.95 (loaded with stuff!) CA residents add 7.75% tax Q. I would like to put together my own kit. What should be in it? A. First get a toolbox to put everything in. Then you should get: Tweezers, scissors, clippers, long needlenosed pliers or a hemostat to remove broken bloodfeathers (hemostats can be purchased at RadioShack in the tool section), Styptic *powder* (pencils are too hard), Bird towel, masking tape or other tape that won't ruin feathers, rubbing alcohol (but don't use on head or vent), gauze and gauze sponges for cleansing wounds, Q-tips, Betadine scrub for washing feet, hydrogen peroxide, syringes for handfeeding a sick bird, and baggies for stool samples or storing a sample of poisons or other substances the bird may have ingested. Find a booklet of first aid procedures and put that in there as well! Q. What shouldn't I do to the bird? A. Never use oils or lotions which contain oils on your bird. They gunk up the feathers, and ruin their insulating properties. This means a chilled bird. Never wait out a cat bite--those require immediate veterinary attention--a bird can die within two days because a cat's mouth is so filthy and full of bacteria. Don't bother with over-the- counter medication. It really doesn't work, and in some cases, may upset the delicate bacterial balance in the bird's body, or even worsen the situation. Never try to treat a fracture at home. Q. My bird is healthy. I don't need to go to a vet, do I? A. Schedule a "well-bird" checkup. Prevention is the best medicine. Even though the bird might appear outwardly healthy, it may have a low-grade infection or something not so readily apparent. Your bird's health and your peace of mind will be worth it. Q. My bird's leg is being rubbed raw by the leg band. Can I take it off? A. No. Don't attempt this, especially if the leg is broken or swollen. The vet will be able to remove the band, and deal with whatever injury maybe lurking under the banded area. Q. How do I pull a broken bloodfeather? A. This is probably the most common mishap. The remedy is simple--yank! It's most easily done with two people. One to restrain the bird and the other to pull the feather. Use a plier, or a hemostat. Tweezers won't work on primaries. Clamp onto the quill, and give a short yank. The feather will come out. Apply a little pressure to the follicle where the feather was to stop the bleeding. Dab some styptic powder on it to help stop the bleeding as well. Let the bird rest. Ask your vet or breeder to demonstrate exactly how to pull a bloodfeather if you're apprehensive about doing it. Q. My bird has broken its wing, what now? A. Get thee to a vet! But take precautions to immobilize the wing. Using butcher, drafting, or masking tape (which isn't too sticky) tape the wing gently to the body. Q. My bird can't lay her eggs. What can I do to help? A. Put her in a hospital cage, and keep her warm. Sometimes this is all it takes. Never try to expell the egg yourself, it may break, and then the bird may get an infection. Call the vet, just in case. When the egg is stuck, the bird cannot relieve itself, and toxins build up. Q. What can I do for a burn? A. Rinse with lots and lots of cool water. A burn is a very serious injury because they are so prone to infection. Q. My sick bird isn't eating! A. Even eating treat foods is better than not eating at all. Try a hand- feeding formula if all else fails. Q. My bird is wheezing, what could this mean? A. The bird may have inhaled a seed hull or a bit of pellet. This is very serious. Also, the bird may have air-sac mites (Gouldian Finches are prone to these) or an infection. All these require vet care. Q. I feel like this is all my fault, why did this happen? A. Even with the best of intent and cautions, mishaps occur. That's exactly why they're called accidents. =============================================================================== *rec.birds.faq*completed 2/28/93*Version 1*Copyright Jodi L. Giannini 1993* ===============================================================================